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Ofelia Hemme used to run Ofelia’s Cocina, a Mexican restaurant on Kern Street with red and yellow tablecloths and sunny wall murals of beaches and palm trees. Her specialty was chiles rellenos: Stuffed peppers. “Every other place, they have chiles rellenos in Mexican restaurants, but ours were different,” says Hemme, smiling. “They were served in some kind of juice, like a juicy sauce, and it was really really really good.” In 2017, the cocina was one of three businesses Hemme owned in Chinatown. Today, however, only one remains: A barber shop she runs with her two sons. In 2018, she had to shutter the restaurant and a men’s clothing store she had owned for 14 years. “It still hurts,” she says. “If you ask me, I can cry right now. I didn’t want to go.” But she was losing customers, thanks to high-speed rail construction. This neighborhood, settled in the late 1800s by workers building the railroad, is now being chewed up to make way for high-speed rail. Right now, three streets that
https://www.kvpr.org/sites/kvpr/files/styles/big_story/public/201904/ChinatownHSR1.jpg
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