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The San Joaquin Valley struggles with environmental pollution. Hundreds of thousands of residents are served with water that’s unsafe to drink , and all of us live under seasonal clouds ozone and particle pollution in the air . Water and air problems are regulated separately, but one contaminant bridges both domains. This story examines why nitrogen is such a persistent problem. Every other Wednesday, Jon Hubble carefully crosses a field of garlic, plucking leaves off of tall, green stalks. “It’s one, two, three, and this would be your most recently matured leaf,” he says, demonstrating how he chooses which leaves to collect. Hubble works for an agronomist in Fresno, sampling crops and soils and sending them off to a lab for testing. It’s what brings him to these rows of garlic in Five Points, on the west side of Fresno County. “One of the perks of onions and garlic: It at least smells good,” he says. The test results get sent back to growers like John Diener, who farms 4,000 acres of
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