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Just off Highway 99, halfway between Fresno and Bakersfield, lies the small community of Goshen. It’s mostly known for its ethanol plant, but among the warehouses and agricultural supply stores that line its commercial streets, there’s a jewel of a joint whose popularity goes well beyond even state lines: a food truck that serves Lao fried chicken and rice. The truck sits in the parking lot of a large store that sells plastic dinosaurs, stuffed animals, and novelty items for vending machines. Lady Chicken & Rice is hand painted in candied red letters on its front. Lady Chicken is named for the woman who created the deep fried Lao chicken recipe that’s so popular here. “I call her Lady. She’s my Lady,” said Bounthong Sang, who runs the business. He was talking about his wife, Bounleuk. Bounthong didn’t give her the nickname, though. Fame did. Well, fame among the locals here in Goshen who love her chicken. “They didn’t know her name. They call, ‘Oh that’s Lady Chicken,’” he said.
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